Dryer Heating Element 240V 5400W (Whirlpool OEM)

Description

Genuine Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element 240V 5400W – Part WP3387747

Part Number: WP3387747

Replaces: AP6008281, 3387747, 525502, 80003, W11045584, W11344457, WP3387747VP, PS11741416

Always verify compatibility using your appliance model number before ordering.

Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part # WP3387747)

Restore powerful, rapid heating to your laundry routine with this Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element. This factory-certified replacement component (Part # WP3387747, which directly replaces standard factory configurations such as 3387747, 525501, AH344597, and EA344597) serves as the central heat source for your appliance.

Unlike elements pre-assembled into full metal boxes, this open-frame design features a coiled nickel-chromium (nichrome) resistance wire strung meticulously along insulating ceramic terminal blocks attached to a rigid metal support bracket. When your dryer initiates a cycle, high-voltage electricity flows through this specialized coil. The electrical resistance generates intense thermal energy, warming the air drawn into the tumbling drum to dry your clothes.

If your dryer turns on and tumbles perfectly but stays completely cold, or if it takes multiple hours to dry a light load of laundry, the internal nichrome heating coil has likely burned out, fractured, or grounded out against its metal mounting frame.

Quick Info:

• Compatibility: Precision engineered for Whirlpool, Kenmore (110-Series), Maytag, Roper, Estate, Amana, KitchenAid, Crosley, and Admiral electric clothes dryers.

• Electrical Specifications: Rated at 5400 Watts / 240 Volts with 5/16″ male spade terminals for high-current wiring connections.

• Fixes Common Issues: Resolves “no heat” or “low heat” complaints, infinitely long drying cycles, or a tripped household circuit breaker when the dryer starts.

• Difficulty: Novice to Intermediate. A highly accessible DIY repair typically requiring a 1/4″ nut driver and about 25 to 30 minutes of installation time.

Pro Tip: Before unboxing your new element, use a digital multimeter to confirm your old coil is truly broken. Set your meter to Ohms (Ω) / Continuity mode and touch the testing probes directly to the two 5/16″ wire terminals at the base of the element. A healthy 5400W element will read a constant resistance between 10 Ω and 30 Ω. If your meter displays “OL” (Open Loop) or shows infinite resistance, the wire coil is physically broken.

Note: Whenever an element burns out, it is often triggered by an airflow restriction. Take this opportunity to thoroughly clean out your home’s exterior wall vent ducting. If heavy lint traps hot air inside the heater housing, the coil will rapidly overheat and burn out again!

Installation & Safety Steps:

1. Isolate Power: You must completely unplug the dryer’s heavy 240V power cord or switch off the dedicated dual-pole kitchen circuit breaker before touching any internal terminals to eliminate severe shock hazards.

2. Access the Element Housing: Pull the dryer out from the wall and unthread the perimeter hex screws holding the large rear sheet-metal access cover in place. Set the panel aside. (On some models, this element is accessed by removing the lower front kick-panel.

3. Unbolt the Heater Box: Locate the metal heater box tube on the right side. Remove the mounting screws, detach the high-limit thermostat wires (label them or take a photo first), and slide the internal heater element bracket assembly out of the metal casing.

4. Swap the Assembly: Unbolt the old element from the casing, transfer any intact mounting hardware or shields to your new genuine factory part, slide the new element assembly back into the tube tracks, and bolt it down securely. Reconnect the terminal leads tightly.

Are you overhauling your electric dryer today because it is tumbling completely cold, or did the original heating coil physically snap and trip your home’s main electrical breaker panel?