Dryer Thermal Fuse (Non-Resettable, 257°F) (LG OEM)

Description

Genuine LG OEM Dryer Thermal Fuse (Non-Resettable, 257°F) – Part 6931EL3003D

One-time use only — cannot be reset. Blown fuse = dryer will not start. Often caused by a clogged exhaust vent. Fits LG, Kenmore, GE dryers.

Part Number: 6931EL3003D

Replaces: AP4440975, 1268366, 6931EL3003E, AH3530485, EA3530485, PS3530485

Always verify compatibility using your appliance model number before ordering.

LG Dryer High-Limit Thermal Fuse Thermostat (Part # 6931EL3003D)

Maintain maximum operational safety and protect your appliance from catastrophic overheating with this Genuine OEM LG Dryer High-Limit Thermal Fuse Thermostat. This factory-certified electrical safety component (Part # 6931EL3003D, which directly replaces older part numbers like 1268256, AH3524311, and EA3524311) acts as a critical line of defense for your laundry room.

Mounted directly onto the side of the metal heating element housing chamber (or gas burner funnel), this bi-metal safety switch continuously monitors the raw heat coming off the element coils. If a sudden airflow restriction traps extreme heat inside the heater box, forcing internal temperatures to spike past a critical safety threshold, this thermostat instantly snaps open its internal copper contact leaves. This cuts off the high-voltage electrical feed to the heat source, preventing a potential appliance fire while allowing the drum to keep tumbling to safely cool down.

If this part fails or trips, it leaves its electrical contacts permanently stuck open. This results in the most common “no heat” symptom: a dryer that turns on, lights up, and tumbles perfectly, but stays completely cold throughout the entire cycle.

Quick Info:

• Compatibility: Precision-engineered exclusively for LG and Kenmore Elite (796-Series) gas and electric clothes dryers.

• Safety Threshold: Engineered to trip and break the circuit at a specialized factory-calibrated high-temperature safety ceiling.

• Fixes Common Issues: Resolves a dryer tumbling completely cold, clothes coming out damp, long dry times, or a machine that stops heating after a few minutes of running.

• Difficulty: Novice to Intermediate. A highly accessible DIY repair requiring basic nut drivers and access to the lower front or rear cabinet area.

Pro Tip: If your dryer tumbles completely cold, you can easily verify whether this high-limit fuse thermostat or your primary heating element is defective using a basic digital multimeter set to Ohms ($\Omega$) / Continuity mode.

First, isolate power and pull the two wire leads off the thermostat terminals. Touch your meter’s testing probes directly to the two brass prongs. Because this is a resettable thermostat (meaning it should naturally snap back closed once it cools down to room temperature), a healthy part should read 0 Ohms (or emit a continuous beep). If your meter displays “OL” (Open Loop) or infinite resistance while the part is completely cool, the internal bi-metal disc has suffered a mechanical breakdown, and the part is permanently defective.

Critical Fire Safety Maintenance Warning: High-limit safety thermostats rarely break on their own—they are usually forced to blow due to a hidden airflow clog! If your home’s exterior exhaust ducting or the internal lint chute is packed with compressed lint, the blower fan cannot exhaust the hot air fast enough, causing the heater box to choke and overheat. If you swap out this thermostat without cleaning your vents, the intense trapped heat will blow your brand-new safety part within the first two or three loads of laundry. Take 15 minutes to vacuum out your vent lines completely!

Standard Installation Guidelines:

1. Safety Power Isolation: You must completely unplug the dryer’s heavy 240V power cord or switch off the dedicated dual-pole house circuit breaker at your main panel to eliminate all high-voltage shock hazards before handling internal wiring grids.

2. Access the Heater Chamber: Depending on your specific LG model, you will either remove the large sheet-metal rear access panel or remove the front lower kick-plate panel underneath the door to reveal the cylindrical metal heating element casing.

3. Label and Disconnect Wires: Locate the small oval thermostat mounted directly on the metal casing shroud. Take a quick picture with your phone for reference, then use needle-nose pliers to pull the two push-on spade wire connectors straight off the prongs.

4. Swap the Assembly: Unthread the mounting screw anchoring the metal mounting tab to the heater tube. Pull out the failed thermostat, wipe any stray lint dust off the seating area, screw the fresh genuine factory part tightly into position, and slide the wire leads firmly back onto their matching terminals.

Are you replacing this high-limit thermostat today because your electric dryer has stopped generating heat altogether, or did you recently discover a major lint clog inside your exterior exhaust vent line?