Description
Genuine LG OEM Gas Dryer Burner Igniter Assembly (Spiral-Style) – Part 5318EL3001A
120V spiral igniter. Includes bracket, wire harness, and plug. Fits LG, Kenmore, GE gas dryers.
Part Number: 5318EL3001A
Replaces: AP4439620, 5318EL3001B, 5318EL9001A, MEQ61841001, 1266860, AH3527801, PS3527801, TJSDE365
Always verify compatibility using your appliance model number before ordering.
LG Dryer Hot Surface Gas Igniter Assembly (Part # 5318EL3001A)
Restore safe, instant ignition to your laundry routine with this Genuine OEM LG Dryer Gas Igniter Assembly. This factory-certified hot-surface igniter (Part # 5318EL3001A, which directly replaces older factory part numbers like 1268225, AH3524294, and EA3524294) serves as the primary thermal trigger inside your appliance’s gas burner assembly.
Mounted directly onto the burner tube bracket next to the gas valve coils, this component features a brittle, high-resistance silicon carbide element. When your dryer calls for heat, line voltage flows directly through this silicon carbide crystal structure. The intense electrical resistance causes the element to glow a bright, incandescent yellowish-orange, reaching temperatures over 2000°F (1093°C) within seconds. This intense heat trips the radiant sensor, opening the main gas valve ports and instantly lighting the rushing gas stream.
Because these ceramic elements are subject to extreme thermal cycling and intense expansion, they will naturally develop microscopic fractures over time. If your igniter fails, your dryer will turn on and tumble perfectly, but it will stay completely cold throughout the cycle, failing to spark a combustion flame.
Quick Info:
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Compatibility: Precision engineered exclusively for LG and Kenmore Elite (796-Series) front-loading gas clothes dryers.
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Component Material: Premium high-durability silicon carbide compound pre-bonded to a protective metal mounting bracket and a two-wire female pin connector block.
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Fixes Common Issues: Resolves a dryer tumbling completely cold, a burner flame failing to ignite, a gas valve failing to open, or a clicking sound from the lower cabinet without any heat.
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Difficulty: Intermediate. Requires removing the front lower panels or bulkhead to access the burner pan assembly at the bottom left of the machine.
⚠️ Critical Handling Warning: Do Not Touch the Black Carbon Element!
Silicon carbide igniters are incredibly sensitive to chemical contamination. When unboxing and installing this new genuine factory part, never touch the black coiled crystal element with your bare fingers. > Your skin naturally carries invisible trace oils and sweat. If you leave even a tiny fingerprint on the carbon surface, that oil will create a localized heat concentration spot (“hot spot”) the very first time the igniter glows. Because the oil traps heat, the expanding crystal matrix will thermal-shock and physically shatter at that fingerprint boundary within its first few cycles. Always handle the part strictly by its white ceramic block base or the attached metal mounting plate. If you accidentally bump the element, clean it thoroughly with a cotton swab dipped in pure rubbing alcohol before applying electrical power!
Understanding the Gas Ignition Sequence:
To properly diagnose your appliance, it helps to understand how a healthy ignition loop works step-by-step:
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Timer/Board Calls for Heat: The control board sends 120V of electricity down to the ignition circuit.
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Igniter Glows White-Hot: The igniter receives voltage and reaches maximum temperature.
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Radiant Sensor Trips: The sensor detects the intense heat from the igniter and trips open a circuit to activate the gas solenoids.
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Gas Valve Opens: Gas flows into the burner tube.
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Flame Ignites: The superheated igniter instantly lights the rushing gas stream, and the igniter shuts off while the flame keeps burning.
Testing with a Multimeter: If your dryer isn’t heating, but you can see the igniter glowing bright white-hot when looking through the lower viewing port, the igniter is perfectly healthy. Your actual failure is likely a worn set of Gas Valve Solenoid Coils, which lack the magnetic strength to lift the internal valve seals.
If the igniter never glows at all, unclip its plastic wiring harness plug and touch a digital multimeter’s probes to the two metal pins inside the connector. Set your meter to Ohms (Ω) / Continuity mode.
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A functional LG igniter will register a steady resistance reading between 40 Ω and 400 Ω.
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If your digital screen displays “OL” (Open Loop) or shows infinite resistance, the crystal element has cracked open internally and must be replaced.
Standard Installation Guidelines:
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Double Utility Isolation: You must unplug the dryer’s electrical power cord to eliminate shock hazards, AND completely shut off the inline manual gas supply valve line leading to the appliance to prevent dangerous gas leaks before opening the chassis.
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Access the Burner Base: Remove the top panel and pull away the front control console faceplate. Unplug the door safety switch wire harness loom and unbolt the main front door bulkhead assembly to reveal the combustion chamber pan sitting in the lower left quadrant of the floor.
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Unplug and Unbolt: Locate the glowing igniter attached to the side of the long steel burner cylinder funnel. Trace its two white insulated wires to the plastic harness plug and unclip it. Unthread the single 1/4″ hex sheet-metal screw securing the igniter’s mounting foot bracket to the burner pipe.
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Carefully Slide and Swap: Gently slide the failed, broken igniter out of its guide alignment slot. Carefully unbox your new genuine factory part (remembering not to touch the black carbon tip), slide its metal foot bracket back flush onto the burner tube, anchor it tightly with the screw, and snap the wire leads back into the main terminal loom block.




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