Top-Load Washer Drain Pump Assembly (LG OEM)

Description

Genuine LG OEM Top-Load Washer Drain Pump Assembly – Part AHA75673404

For LG top-load washers (WT7xxx series). Removes water during the drain cycle. Access via back panel removal.

Part Number: AHA75673404

Replaces: AP6978814, AHA75673402, PS12748410

Always verify compatibility using your appliance model number before ordering.

estore fast, flawless water evacuation, and prevent messy floor flooding with this Genuine OEM LG Washer Drain Pump Assembly. This factory-certified fluid evacuation module (Part # AHA75673404, which directly updates and replaces older variant configurations like AGF30196101, 4960136, AP6992160, and PS16223363) functions as the primary mechanical engine responsible for forcing wastewater out of the drum and into your home’s standpipe.

Mounted securely near the base of the washing machine cabinet, this unit combines a high-torque electric motor with a heavy-duty thermoplastic impeller chamber. When the washer’s main control board signals a drain or spin phase, it applies electrical current to this module, spinning the internal impeller blades at high speed to pull water away from the wash tub and push it out through your main drain hose line.

If a loose item like a coin or hair clip slips past your wash basket and shears the impeller blades, or if the electric motor windings short out over time, the machine will completely lock down as a safety precaution. This triggers critical failure symptoms, including a washing machine that stalls mid-cycle with a tub full of dirty water, an active “OE” (Output Error / No Drain) code flashing on the control panel, a washer that refuses to initiate high-speed spin cycles due to remaining water weight, or a loud, aggressive grinding or humming noise when a drain phase attempts to start.

Quick Info:

• Compatibility: Precision engineered for modern, high-efficiency (HE) front-loading and top-loading LG and Kenmore (796-Series) washing machines.

• Component Kit Details: Complete factory assembly containing the electric drain pump motor body, the white distribution plastic impeller casing, and integrated rubber-isolated chassis mounting tabs.

• Fixes Common Issues: Resolves “OE” drainage fault codes; clothes coming out dripping wet; a machine that sits dead and hums when it should be draining; and active leaks puddling underneath the lower base plate.

• Difficulty: Intermediate. Accessible from either the bottom base plate or behind the front cabinet wall panel, depending on your specific model configuration.

⚠️ Pro Shortcut Repair Strategy (For Top-Load Models Only):

If you are working on an LG top-loading washing machine, you do not need to take apart the top console or disassemble the entire framework of the cabinet. You can easily complete this entire swap in about 15 minutes right through the bottom of the machine:

1. Unplug the power cord, disconnect your supply hoses, and tape the washer lid securely shut so it doesn’t swing open.

2. Gently lay the washing machine completely on its back or side on top of a soft moving blanket to protect your floor.

3. The entire bottom of the machine is open, giving you direct, unhindered access to unbolt the pump from the tub base, swap the wire harness, and transfer the hose clamps!

Step-by-Step Replacement Guidelines:

1. Absolute Power Isolation: You must completely unplug the washing machine’s electrical power cord from the wall outlet or flip your home’s dedicated circuit breaker to eliminate high-voltage electrical shock hazards before handling internal components.

2. Access the Pump: For front-loading models, remove the outer wire gasket clamp and peel back the door boot to unbolt the main front panel wall skin. For top-loading models, tilt the machine onto its side or rear panel to access the component layout via the open floor pan.

3. Isolate and Clamp Hoses: Locate the failed pump assembly. Place a shallow pan or an old bath towel underneath the large rubber connectors to catch residual graywater. Use a pair of slip-joint pliers to squeeze and slide back the tension clamps on both the large tub-to-pump inlet boot and the thin exterior drain outlet hose, then twist the hoses firmly off the white plastic ports.

4. Disconnect the Electrical Harness: Depress the locking clip tab on the plastic multi-pin wiring harness plug block and slide it straight away from the terminal spades on the motor housing.

5. Unbolt and Swap the Assembly: Unthread the mounting screws securing the pump body’s integrated mounting tabs directly to the washer chassis frame tracking. Pull the old pump clear. Slide your fresh new genuine factory replacement assembly into the mounting tracks, tighten the structural screws down, reconnect your rubber hoses securely with their spring clips, snap the electrical terminal block firmly into place, and reassemble your cabinet walls.