Description
Genuine Samsung OEM Samsung Refrigerator Excessive Frost / Water Leakage Service Kit – Part DA82-01415A
Field service kit (includes drain probe, 2 drain tubes, foam strips). Addresses water under crisper drawers and evaporator frost buildup.
Part Number: DA82-01415A
Replaces: DA62-03441A, DA82-01415ACM
Always verify compatibility using your appliance model number before ordering.
Samsung Refrigerator Water Leakage / Drain Field Service Kit (Part # DA82-01415A)
Stop water from pooling on your kitchen floor and eliminate pooling underneath your crisper drawers with this Genuine OEM Samsung Refrigerator Water Leakage Service Kit. This specialized field service package (Part # DA82-01415A) is a factory-engineered solution designed specifically to correct a notorious engineering flaw in Samsung bottom-freezer and French-door models utilizing dual evaporators.
When your refrigerator transitions into its automatic defrost cycle, melted frost flows down into a drain pan. In legacy configurations, the original drain tubes (often called “duckbill valves”) on the rear of the fridge become clogged with slime and debris, sticking shut. At the same time, the original metal heater clip fails to reach deep enough into the drain hole. This combination causes the defrost water to freeze solid inside the drain port. Once frozen, consecutive defrost cycles have nowhere to drain, forcing water to overflow out of the back panel, freeze into a solid ice sheet under your deli/crisper drawers, and leak out onto your kitchen floor.
Quick Info:
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Compatibility: Precision-engineered exclusively for Samsung French-door and bottom-freezer refrigerators with dual evaporators.
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Fixes Common Issues: Resolves water pooling or freezing solid under crisper drawers/deli pans, water leaking onto the floor, and loud, vibrating fan noises (caused by the evaporator fan blades physically striking ice buildup inside the back wall cover).
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Kit Contents: Contains (2) Upgraded Rear Drain Tubes with protective anti-stick caps, (1) Extended Metal Defrost Heater Clip, (1) Replacement Base Foam Seal, and (2) Rear Panel Adhesive Insulation Foam Strips.
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Difficulty: Intermediate. Requires removing the interior rear evaporator wall cover and manually defrosting the hidden cooling coils.
Pro Tip: If your refrigerator is making a loud buzzing or clicking noise that suddenly stops the exact moment you open the fresh food doors, your fan is currently hitting an ice block. Before you attempt to pry off the plastic rear evaporator cover panel to install this kit, you must melt the ice holding it in place. Prying on a frozen panel will instantly crack the plastic or tear the underlying styrofoam insulation. Use a handheld hair dryer to gently thaw the outer seams, or unplug the refrigerator completely and leave the doors open for 24 hours to clear out hidden ice build-up safely.
Installation & Field Update Guidelines:
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Isolate Power: Unplug the refrigerator from the wall socket before removing internal components.
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Access the Coils: Clear out the shelves and drawers, remove the securing screws, and carefully remove the interior rear evaporator panel.
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Install the Heater Clip: Locate the thin aluminum tab hanging off the bottom of the black defrost heating element. Remove it and clip on the new, significantly longer metal drain clip included in this kit. This extended arm reaches directly down into the drain hole to conduct heat and prevent ice dams from ever forming.
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Apply Insulation Foams: Replace the old, waterlogged foam seals on the back and bottom of the drain plate housing with the fresh adhesive backing foam strips to prevent cold air from short-circuiting the drain.
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Update the Rear Tubes: Pull the refrigerator out from the wall cabinet, unbolt the lower rear access shroud, and pull off the old, pinched black rubber duckbill tubes. Twist on the upgraded, round-capped white drain tubes included in the kit, which allow water to flush out freely without clogging.
Are you dealing with a loud fan noise alongside the water leak under your crisper pans, or has your refrigerator stopped cooling effectively over the last few days?


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