Washer Dispenser Fill Hose with Bellows (LG OEM)

Description

Genuine LG OEM Washer Dispenser Fill Hose with Bellows – Part 4738ER1004B

The dispenser hose connects the dispenser assembly to the tub. NOT door boot seal. A common leak source is a crack.

Part Number: 4738ER1004B

Replaces: AP4437692, AH3523347, EA3523347, PS3523347

Always verify compatibility using your appliance model number before ordering.

Stop active water leaks, sudsy overflow mess, and localized internal cabinet corrosion with this Genuine OEM LG Washer Fill Hose Bellows. This factory-certified flexible rubber conduit (Part # 4738ER1004B, which directly updates and replaces older variant stock codes like 1267489, AP4438187, AH3524383, and PS3524383) serves as the primary gateway transferring fresh water and dissolved laundry detergents directly into your wash system.

Positioned in the upper front-left quadrant of your washing machine chassis, this thick, multi-curved rubber hose bridges the gap between the static, frame-mounted plastic detergent drawer housing and the highly dynamic, floating plastic outer tub basin. Because the wash tub shakes, vibrates, and translates violently on suspension springs during high-speed extraction spin cycles, a rigid plastic pipe would instantly shatter under the mechanical stress. This hose features integrated accordion-style accordion bellows designed to flex, stretch, and compress indefinitely, maintaining an airtight, watertight seal while the tub bounces under heavy structural momentum.

Over a decade of constant exposure to highly concentrated chemical surfactants, bleach, blistering hot wash temperatures, and hard water scale, the specialized ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber compound degrades, dries out, and loses its elasticity. When it weakens, small hairline stress fractures split open along the deep valley folds of the accordion bellows. This triggers a specific failure pattern: the washing machine operates normally through most cycles, but pours clean, soapy water directly onto your floor or basepan during the first 2 to 3 minutes of the initial wash fill phase.

Quick Info:

• Compatibility: Precision engineered for modern high-efficiency (HE) front-loading LG and Kenmore (796-Series) washing machines.

• Component Design: S-curved, heavy-duty molded EPDM rubber body featuring a wide-mouthed flanged coupling on the inlet end, a multi-tiered bellows flex midsection, and a thick circular collar on the outlet tub nozzle.

• Fixes Common Issues: Resolves active leaks weeping from the front-left bottom edge of the machine during filling; localized low-pressure flooding inside the cabinet; and “Suds” or overflow tracking anomalies caused by external backpressure or a tear.

• Difficulty: Intermediate. Accessible by popping the top sheet-metal cabinet plate and uncoupling the spring-loaded hose clamps from the detergent drawer block.

⚠️ An Invisible Threat: The Detergent Scale Build-Up

When dealing with a torn 4738ER1004B fill bellows, the failure isn’t always caused just by physical aging or tub vibration. A silent driver of this breakdown is the use of excess powdered laundry detergent or cheap liquid softeners. > Over time, undissolved soap concentrates settle inside the deep, low valleys of the rubber folds, cooling and solidifying into a hard, white, razor-sharp crust of chemical scale. As the machine runs a spin cycle and the tub twists the bellows back and forth, these hard, sharp calcified soap blocks grind continuously against the moving rubber walls. This acts exactly like sandpaper, cutting into the rubber from the inside out until a massive tear opens up. When installing your new part, always check the plastic nozzle of your detergent drawer block and wipe away any crusty, jagged soap blockages before sliding the fresh rubber on!

Step-by-Step Replacement Guidelines:

1. Absolute Power Isolation: You must completely unplug the washing machine’s electrical power cord from the wall outlet to eliminate all high-voltage shock hazards before opening structural panels. Shut off the hot and cold municipal water wall faucets as an added safety precaution.

2. Remove the Top Cabinet Panel: Move to the back of the washer frame and unthread the two Phillips head retaining screws holding the rear edge of the upper flat sheet-metal plate. Slide the top cover plate backward about an inch, lift it up, and set it completely aside to fully expose the upper internal components.

3. Locate the Bellows Assembly: Peer down into the front-left corner of the chassis, right underneath the slide-out detergent drawer tray block. You will see the thick black S-shaped rubber bellows hose dropping down from the rear nozzle of the drawer assembly and connecting straight to the top of the outer plastic tub shell.

4. Release the Retaining Clamps: The hose is locked at both ends by heavy metal spring wire clamps or constant-tension screw bands.

   • For Spring Clamps: Use a pair of pliers to firmly squeeze the two protruding ears of the upper clamp together to expand the ring, then slide it down onto the middle section of the hose. Repeat this for the bottom tub clamp.

   • For Screw-Driven Clamps: Use a 5/16″ nut driver or flat screwdriver to loosen the tension screws counterclockwise until the bands spin loosely.

5. Extract the Failed Hose: Grab the upper rubber sleeve and twist it firmly to break the factory seal against the smooth plastic drawer nozzle, then pull it straight off. Move downward to the tub port, work your fingers around the rim flange, and pull the bellows completely away from the wash tub housing.

6. Install the Fresh Replacement Bellows: Clean any slimy soap scum or crusty calcium scale off both the upper plastic drawer outlet port and the lower plastic tub entry nozzle using a damp cloth. Slide the new metal clamps onto your fresh, new genuine part. Push the bottom collar of the bellows firmly onto the tub nozzle until it seats flush against the molded registration stop line. Force the upper wide flanged opening onto the detergent tray nozzle. Position the tension clamps precisely over the mounting lips at both ends, release your pliers to clamp them down tightly, slide the top sheet-metal panel back into place, and run a short rinse cycle to verify a perfectly watertight seal.