Washer Suspension Rod Kit (Set of 4 w/ Springs/Cups) (Whirlpool OEM)

Description

Genuine Whirlpool OEM Washer Suspension Rod Kit (Set of 4 w/ Springs/Cups) – Part W11130362

Part Number: W11130362

Replaces: AP6335617, PS12347546

Always verify compatibility using your appliance model number before ordering.

Whirlpool Top-Load Washer Suspension Rod Kit (Part # W11130362)

Eliminate severe, violent structural shaking, out-of-balance load stalling, and deafening banging during the spin cycle with this Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Suspension Rod Kit. This factory-certified safety damper package (Part # W11130362, which officially updates and replaces older or alternative inventory configurations like AP6335617 and PS12347546) comes as a matching set of 4 to completely stabilize the kinetic energy of your appliance.

High-efficiency top-load washing machines do not use a rigid internal metal frame to support the wash basket. Instead, the entire heavy plastic outer tub, metal inner basket, and drive motor are suspended in mid-air, hanging from the four upper corners of the cabinet by these specialized spring-loaded steel rods. They function identically to the shock absorbers on an automobile. As clothes tumble and high-speed spin cycles generate heavy centrifugal forces, these rods absorb the structural vibrations, keeping the tub perfectly centered and level.

Over years of handling heavy wet blankets and towels, the internal coiled springs inside these rods lose their tensile strength or the plastic damper sleeves wear down. When this happens, the springs sag unevenly. The very first time the washer tries to ramp up to a high-speed spin, the off-balance tub sags, shifts violently, and slams against the outer cabinet walls. This triggers the classic “uB” or “UL” (Unbalanced Load) error code, forcing the machine to prematurely stop the cycle and leave your clothes soaking wet.

Kit Contents & Specifications:

Because suspension springs break down at an identical rate under shared loads, you must always replace all 4 rods at the exact same time. Replacing only one or two sagging rods will unbalance the tub even further, quickly ruining the new parts:

• (4) Heavy-Duty Coiled Suspension Rod Assemblies: High-tensile steel rods pre-fitted with bottom spring dampening cups.

• (4) Upper Suspension Ball Bushings: Smooth plastic pivot seats that rest inside the upper cabinet corner brackets.

• (4) Plastic Rod Tub Knuckles: Snap-in retaining collars that secure the bottom hooks directly to the outer tub frame slots.

Quick Info:

• Compatibility: Precision engineered for modern high-efficiency (HE) top-loading Whirlpool, Kenmore (110-Series), Maytag, Amana, Roper, Estate, and stripes/Inglis washing machines.

• Fixes Common Issues: Resolves the “uB”, “Ub”, or “UL” out-of-balance display error codes; extreme cabinet shaking, walking, or violent thumping during spin cycles; and loads that finish with clothes still completely saturated with water.

• Difficulty: Intermediate. A highly manageable DIY repair requiring a putty knife, a piece of wood blocks or a helper to support the tub, and basic mechanical hand tools.

⚠️ Pro Mechanical Safety Warning:

Top-load washer tubs are incredibly heavy, especially if your machine stalled out mid-cycle with water still trapped inside. Before attempting to unhook these suspension rods, make absolutely certain that the washer tub is completely empty of water. > If your pump failed and the tub is full, manual-drain the water out using a wet-vac or siphon hose first. Trying to lift a water-logged tub upward to unhook a suspension rod can result in severe finger pinching, torn wire harnesses, or structural damage to the plastic outer tub lip.

Step-by-Step Replacement Guidelines:

1. Absolute Power and Water Isolation: Unplug the washing machine’s electrical power cord from the wall outlet to eliminate all electrical shock hazards. Tape the washer lid shut with painter’s tape so it doesn’t swing open and shatter during assembly.

2. Pop Open the Top Console Top: Slide a stiff putty knife into the thin seam between the front cabinet wall and the top main display lid, about 6 inches inward from each outer corner, to release the hidden metal spring clips. Swing the entire top cabinet lid assembly upward and secure it safely to the wall behind it using a bungee cord or a helper’s hands.

3. Support the Internal Tub Frame: Prop a couple of blocks of wood or a thick rolled towel underneath the bottom edge of the plastic outer tub basin to prevent it from dropping completely to the floor pan when you unhook the suspension points.

4. Unhook the Old Rod Assembly (One Corner at a Time): Move to the first corner. Grab the top of the steel suspension rod right above the plastic ball seat with a pair of gloved hands or locking pliers. Pull the rod straight upward an inch to compress the internal spring, tilt the rod head sideways out through the slot in the upper cabinet corner bracket, and lower the entire rod straight down through the cabinet frame. Unsnap the bottom plastic knuckle from the tub flange and lift the old rod assembly out of the machine.

5. Install the Fresh Replacement: Take your new genuine assembly, feed the top hook straight up through the empty corner housing hole, slide the fresh plastic pivot ball seat into place, and guide the upper hook securely into the bracket slot. Snap the lower plastic cup mount directly into the tub’s outer frame notch.

6. Repeat and Reset: Perform this exact swap on the remaining three corners individually. Once all 4 fresh rods are locked down, lower the top console back onto the cabinet, press down firmly until the spring clips click shut, plug the machine back in, and run an empty cycle to calibrate the fresh dampening springs.

Are you overhauling your suspension rods today because your washing machine has started violently slamming against the drywall during spin cycles, or is your display screen actively stuck on the “uB” out-of-balance error code?